One Man in Bulgaria

My trip to Rila, which should include Pirin as this mountain range surrounds the end of the line, terminated in Dobrinishte where I stayed for a few days. Most people refer to Bansko about 6km away but I found that Dobrinishte had more character and I was pleased that I chose it as my base for the visit. I was fortunate to meet a young student who was studying English and she gave me a tour around the town on the afternoon of the 29th September 2016. This gave me many insights into the history and customs of the town and introduced me to many local people. We would renew our friendship at the Pomorie Folk Dance Festival in June 2017 which I have also posted here.

We emerge from the car park and turn right? Ah, petrol is required for our journey. Pulling in to the modern service station about 500 metres down the road I observe the transfer of logs from a small lorry suitable for accessing the forest to a large road transporter which may whisk its load across the highways of the European Union. The disused flatbeds scattered along the once busy and prosperous narrow gauge railway reflect this change. It also goes to show that, whereas the logs would have been collected from local halts then transferred at the end of the line which kept the smaller stations and local support alive, the logs still have to be handled multiple times and many more trucks poured onto the roads. I hope that the tide is turning throughout the world, that rail and water will re-emerge as the sensible option. But onward to find our bears....

... or should I say "Where are the bears?" When I was young such TV programs as Lancelot, William Tell and similar movies along with a hit by Alan Price, funnily enough a member of the "Animals" pop group when not performing solo, titled "Simon Smith and his Amazing Dancing Bear" (see him perform it on YouTube)  released in 1968 glorified the life of the "dancing bear". In reality the truth was somewhat different in the majority of cases. Whilst perusing my DK travel guide on the journey from Septemvri to Dobrinishte I came across a reference to the "Dancing Bear Sanctuary". Accessible by taxi from the Relitsa station, all else left my thoughts, this was a "must see" journey, my first in the area. Relitsa is incorrect it is Belitsa, Relitsa is on the other side of the country.

The next stations we pass through reflect the former glory of the railway. Smolevo is the next halt along the line after departing Avramovo. The station sign has been removed as it is now a private house.  After a brief halt we journey on to Cherna Mesta, the old graffiti covered building here looks very sad indeed. I have the impression that it is a shelter for the railway staff rather than a thriving station. Non of this diminishes the journey itself, to my mind this second stage is even more picturesque than the first.

Back in England, stored in my brother's loft lies an N gauge model railway. The track is 9mm (slightly less that 3/8ths or 0.354") wide. It is 1:160 scale. The rolling stock is 1:148 scale so my largest engine is about 300mm long. This N gauge which we are now riding on has track which is 760mm wide and the engine is somewhat larger but what a marvellous train set which someone gets to control and others to work on. Yes; this is a Narrow Gauge railway and we are on our way from Septemvri to Dobrinishte exploring the full length of this 125 km run. To this end I have booked an hotel in Dobrinishte rather than the rather more popular Bansko summer and ski resort. Unfortunately the branch from Varvara to Pzardzik is now closed.

Breakfast over it was time for me to depart Cob Camp in time to purchase a ticket and catch the 10:53 train from Belovo back to Septemvri, arriving there at 11:05. Dessy was kind enough to drop me there and assist with the purchase of my ticket. You will be pleased to know that the UK railways are not the only ones who rely on buses. Issued with my rail ticket I was ushered outside and back onto the car park. A coach was waiting there. "Yes, give the driver my case and board." "No, wait there are two more coaches coming."  After a few minutes said coaches arrived. After much discussion between the drivers and railway staff I boarded the original coach which I had been directed to. The train might not be running but the guard would travel with us. Ten or so minutes later we turned of the A8 down the road into Septemvri. I couldn't help but noticed a huge car graveyard, there are lots of accidents in Bulgaria. The photo was, in fact taken later from the train bu...

I hopped off the train at Belovo, crossed the tracks and departed this quaint railway station. As I walked down the side of the building which contains the ticket office, waiting room and offices I observed a hearty meal in progress under cosy lamp light. As there was no indication of an integral restaurant I concluded that the station master and his family live on site. I could be wrong, perhaps the staff eat extremely well. I wondered who the statue was but never managed to pursue this question. The line to Sofia was completed in 1888. A phone call to Cob Camp from the train after leaving Septemvri station guaranteed a lift to the camp.

Varna Summer was ending on the 24th September and my thoughts turned to another trip into the Bulgarian hinterland. Autumn approaching, I decided that I would not make a tentatively planned trip back to Veliko Tarnovo but would venture further afield. I had previously booked my return journeys on line where tickets are issued for the outward and return journeys. This service is not available for all journeys which is why I found myself at the ticket office in Varna Railway Station on the 21st prior to the public holiday. My plan was to depart the following Monday.

Ending with "Trumpet Extravaganza - A Journey into the Italian Baroque" Varna certainly blew it's own trumpet this year and well did it have cause. The finale of "Varna Summer", the 90th anniversary of the first Bulgarian Music Festival took pace in the modern theatre attached to the historic University of Economics, its self celebrating 100 years of academic achievement. "Varna Summer" commenced in June with international competition for young musicians, taking the public through opera, musicals, classical, cross-over, folk, rock, blues and jazz to end on the theme of the 'Baroque' this weekend. Venues have included the City Art Gallery, the Archaeological Museum, the Sea Garden and the Summer Theatre. Varna Day itself included an open air concert by the Band of the Bulgarian Navy. You cannot get more diverse than this.

We had Unification Day earlier in the month, now we have, in theory, a four day holiday celebrating Bulgarian Independence. Bulgarians have had to work the previous two Saturdays to make up for this extended holiday however I was to discover that most shops and service outlets remained open because they need the income. Indeed the low wage economy took this post in a direction which I had not intended when I set out this morning. The Varna website was sadly lacking in information so I went down into the town centre in search of parades or events to mark the occasion. I was either in the wrong place at the right time or the right place at the wrong time. Inevitably I found myself in the Sea Garden as this is where many of the monuments are. The sun was shining with a temperature in the low to mid 20s, a pleasant day to stroll around and the same thought had occurred to most of the population here in Varna. Those not working that is.  Instead of a photo album of parades and other f...

I have lamented many times as to how far behind I am with my blogs and here is the reason why. I set off after lunch to find a sports superstore I had been told about. My brother needs some new hockey skates. I decided to follow my nose from Candles restaurant heading in the general direction of Kaufland, the shop I wanted was some distance beyond. It would appear that I took a wrong fork in the road as I ended up the hill in the northern industrial area of Varna. Resorting to Google Maps on my phone I laid a new course. But here is the rub. I have many events and places to write about but then, looking over a fence I spy this hive of activity...

This morning I rose early, well 9ish, dressed and caught the number 14 bus into the centre. I was lucky in my decision as I passed the parade I was looking for otherwise I would have ended up at the wrong monument. I thought that my destination was the monument in the Sea Garden but here we are at the square next to the Municipal Offices.  Why are we here? On this day 131 years ago the reunification of Bulgaria took place and a ceremony is held each year to commemorate the event. I missed this last year after my arrival in Bulgaria but I am now learning how to discover events before they take place. The commemoration ceremony takes place at the monument to the soldiers who died in the Serbo-Bulgarian war. Bulgaria had been divided into Eastern Roumelia, ruled by the Ottoman Empire with partial autonomy in 1878 under the Treaty of Berlin. This was thought unfair and a peaceful protest began.

It's Saturday and I receive an email. Would I like to go along to a talent competition with an American friend of mine? His grand daughter is appearing. I knew that she has performed in several shows with her school and other voluntary organisations so I agreed. I should point out that my friend has lived in Bulgaria for ten years and is married to a local lass. Having consented to share a taxi we met and disappeared off into the suburbs. We alighted and found seats outside Cheers Cocktail Bar.  The stage and sound system were ready. Small world, a number 14 bus went past, this must be near the end of its route.

It is Thursday afternoon, the sky is clear and the temperatures ar in the 80s or 20s depending on your age.  It is 14:30 and I have just got off the number 14 bus outside the "Sea Garden" near the stadium. I walk down the steps leading to the underpass to my left, handy for the return journey, and the path down into the park to my right. I have been informed that there is a music festival taking place at the fountain below the statue.  I see several banners as I admire the gardeners hard at work in these temperatures keeping the gardens looking beautiful.  I can hear music so follow my ear down the path into the park.

I ended my last post with the words that I was not going to go into the historical details however I thought that I would give you some clues. National heroes Vasil Levski, Stephan Karadzha, Filip Tptyu, Bacho Kiro, participants of the April Uprising and others were held hostage and tortured in the prison. Russian Prince Alexander M. Dondukov-Korsakov fought against the British in the previous war in the Crimea before the Russians were persuaded to support revolution in Bulgaria. The Russians were partly persuaded because of the renaissance of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church, which had flirted with the protection of the Pope and 'Holy Roman Empire' before gaining strength and independence from the Ottoman supported Greek Orthodox Church.  Politics, taxes and corruption all played their part. Nothing changes. Tarnovo was central to all of these influences and consequences although the new King, Boris III, never took residence as the capital had moved to Sofia by the time he was ...

My second day in Veliko Tarnovo should have started with breakfast however I did not realise that the bar/restaurant kitchen did not open util 11:00 hours so be warned, accept the hotel's offer of a free breakfast. The fine buildings across the road housing the Museums of the Bulgarian Revival and the Prison now beckoned as they had been closed the previous day (Monday). This was proving very popular on a bright June day as were most of the attractions in the area. It would seem that end of term in this town, and possibly country, involves lots of school trips to see history and art first hand and I must say that all of the children were very enthusiastic. Perhaps that was freedom from the classroom rather than freedom from oppression?

I left the bar/restaurant on the corner and headed off up ul. "Ivan Vazov" this being the road I had travelled down in the Taxi from the city to the hotel. I still could not work out which bend of the river I was on. It was now very hot and humid and uphill! I passed some souvenier shops then came to the fork in the road where ul. "Nikola Pikolo" and my path become ul "Stefan Stambolov" and it was still uphill. Nothing for it ask a local. The con-census was, "It's down there" pointing back in the direction I had come. Not having a camel or water I darted into a shop for a bottle, I was going to need it especially when I saw those steps. Veliko Tarnovo is definitely not for the faint-hearted. I reminded me of Durham City from whence I came. This fact was to be brought home to me later for another reason.

Approaching the bar from the hotel At the end of my last post I took time out to have lunch at the cafe on the corner (or is it a bar or restaurant???), this was to be a frequent haunt of mine during my stay here in Veliko Tarnovo. Both the menu and the surroundings never cease to amaze and intrigue.  I was to discover that merely changing ones seat opened up a whole new treasure trove of wonders.  Despite the eclectic taste of the proprietor the place does not take on the being of a junk shop or jumble sale.

My alarm is set for 07:00, my bag is almost packed. I wake, shower and dress then proceed on a 20 minute walk to the bus station (10 minutes for everyone else). I sit in the morning sunshine; coffee and a sandwich to hand as I look across at the gleaming bright red BIOMET luxury coaches waiting to whisk people away to Sofia some six hours away. Haven't I told a similar tale to you before I hear you ask? Well patience folks all will be revealed.  This time I thought that I would tell more about the coach journey itself.

Culture and Literacy Day.   It is a public holiday here in Bulgaria. Looking into the background I found that the day, celebrated on 24 May, its full title is "Bulgarian Education and Culture, and Slavonic Literature Day" , a national holiday celebrating Bulgarian culture and literature as well as the alphabet. It is also known as "Alphabet, Culture, and Education Day". Saints Cyril and Methodius are patrons of the National Library of Bulgaria located in the capital, Sophia. Now I know the story behind one of the photos I took in Sophia.

The sun is shining this fine Sunday lunchtime as I head over to the 'Grand Mall', local monument to our consumer lifestyle and far too near to my apartment. A good job that I am not married!  Rumour has it that there is a 'World Food Fare' taking place today.  In keeping with the sunshine the decorative theme in the Mall this month is 'flowers' and the first example I see is this shoe.  An appropriate start to a days retail therapy for some no doubt, but I am here in search of food.

Wherever I wondered during the previous week brightly coloured stalls could be found selling all manner of Martenitsi.  The one thing they have in common is a thread of red and white. Some have beads some are the more traditional 'Pizho and Penda' as seen here.  These tokens are given to loved ones, friends and family on Baba Marta day, the 1st of March. The tradition is celebrated throughout Bulgaria and according to some sources believed to be the oldest Pagan festival in Europe.  Baba Marta - Grandma March Day celebrates the end of winter and the coming of spring. She is supposed to be a very bad tempered old lady who's mood swings determine the weather, the sun comes out when she smiles. Some say she doing the spring clean, the feathers from the shaken duvet fall to earth as the last snow of winter. Others that the marteniti are to please her into shortening the winter. The tokens which are given and must never be bought for oneself are worn on the clothing or aroun...

Emerging from the museum the crowds have gathered. Parents help their children into their costumes, fathers carry the heavy masks for their sons but all around the tension builds as the various youth groups line up and wait their turn to parade down the avenue to the central stage where the judges wait. Groups have arrived from towns and villages around Pernik and from afar to attend this prestigious event. Costumes and dances reflect the local traditions of these villages but all follow the themes of the mummers traditions. From Morris dancing in England to the mountains of Switzerland these pagan traditions win through to the modern age. The battle for survival during the long dark winter months and the hope for new life in Spring are reflected in the dances, the offering of bread, the hobby horse, the bear and the devil.

Friday morning dawned, not clear and fine but, as you can see, cold and foggy.  My spectacular view across the city to the surrounding mountains was not to be revealed today. Sophia had been shrouded in fog when we arrived yesterday. As we passed the airport on the way into the city my fellow passenger explained to me that the Germans had used the fog as a means of hiding the airfield which they constructed at the time of WWII.  It has only been in recent years that one could turn up as a passenger expecting to fly out on Monday morning but not leave until two days later.

Ever since I arrived here the locals have told go by bus it is faster and better. Well here we are at Varna bus station boarding the 10:00 bus to Sofia.  You may recall that my guide at the Sofia Ethnological Museum mentioned a festival which took place in her village.  On returning to Varna I did some research on the internet to establish dates and places.  Most villages have celebrations around 12th night or the 14th, Michaelmas. Mumers dressed in various costumes continue the traditions established in pagan times. Amongst many listed I discovered the festival at Pernik so off we go.  I am told that it is a six hour journey.

Although the snow had cleared it is still bitterly cold here in Varna I say had because, as I write this it is snowing again.  Just because it is more difficult to travel in the winter, partly due to me getting older and not so keen to suffer for my art, doesn't mean that I hibernate in front of the English language programs on the TV.  Already getting dark Friday evening found me walking down the street, cold but a crispness in the air. The number 14 bus would drop me outside the Tourist Information Office a short walk to the theatre cafe.  Hot coffee and a slice of gateaux before another short walk to the Opera House.

Those of you with Facebook will have seen the first photographs prompted by a look out of the window yesterday afternoon. Although I had seen a few snowflakes around 10:00 hours I had not noticed that it had continued all morning, the flakes were so fine to be almost invisible. The temperature was about -8 degrees C so I had not ventured out but, thinking about food, I looked out of the window at about 15:00 hours to be greeted with this sight. A white Christmas had arrived slightly late and an early dinner was called for!