My last post from Sofia left me tucked up in bed. Tuesday morning (15th Dec.) dawned not so bright and not so early. A look out of my window confirmed that bul. "Todor Alexandrov" would lead me to Sofia city centre. According to Google the outside temperature was about 6°C and it would be about a 20 minute walk. Just enough to work up an appetite for brunch in town. I paused at the bridge over the river to see the water and look back at the hotel before proceeding on my journey. There is ample public transport for the faint hearted, a metro station next to the hotel as well as buses and taxis. A tram service also criss-crosses the city though not past this particular hotel.
Walking into the city affords spectacular views of the modern architecture replacing the old streets and houses before arriving at the contrasting centre of historical buildings and churches. I am told that you can buy a whole deserted village as people have moved from the country to the ever expanding city. It is also interesting to observe the isolated old houses, once the centre of a few acres of land producing food for the hungry city dweller, affluent or otherwise. Of course McDonald's has now stepped in to feed the nation.
Approaching the centre the dual carriageway rises to pass over another route but this lends drama to the view of Sveta Sofia "Holy Widom" on her pedestal, once a statue of Lenin, facing the imposing 'Party House', a wedge shaped 'Stalinist' structure which housed Central Committee of the Bulgarian Communist Party. It must have been quite a daunting view for those who approached the capital down this boulevard, one of the main approaches to the city. It certainly stated who was in control of your life. Paradoxically within a small circle of this building lies the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Saint John, the Orthodox church "Sveta Nedelya" and the "Banya Bashi" Mosque. Not far away is the IV century 'Rotunda' and a Russian church all with their own unique styles. Incidentally, as in Varna, note the cycle track down the side of the road.
45 minutes after setting off, I paused as I arrived at this open area at the main junction, an entrance to the metro to the left, Christmas and flower stalls, the imposing 'Sofia Hotel Balkan' ahead and right the 'Sveta Nedelya' church. At first I thought this was the cathedral! I walked along the pavement in the direction of the church stopping as I came to the imposing Sedebna Palata, 'Courts of Justice'. Retracing my steps I purchased a hot coffee and a couple of croissants, "chocolate or cheese?" and sat at the, now tented, pavement cafe. Looking at the map I had envisaged vast distances but this is not the case. It turned out that Sofia is a city to wander around, exploring to your hearts content. If you follow the photographs in the album I have commented and located them so that you can follow the route and see the things I am talking about.
Fortified, I crossed the road to the plaza 'Sveta Nedelya' examining the exterior of the church and the rather unorthodox shopping centre before entering the church itself. Some churches allow photography (no flash) for a 5 Leva fee. Fortunately this was one of them. It was beautiful inside. I visited the 'Icon Museum' in Plovdiv (I have not written the post yet), entering the church one sees them in their wonderful setting. People stand to worship so there is no clutter of pews, lamps are low as the faithful say a prayer to their particular saint, there is a 'Name Day' for most first names in this country, the candles give off a scent of their own adding to the hushed atmosphere of this holy place.
Emerging from the church I walk to the rear and bump into the Grand Sofia Hotel Balkan. This imposing building is the height of luxury in the heart of the city. The building forms a rectangle with a courtyard in the centre. At the far end is the 'Presidentsvo', in the courtyard the IV century 'Rotunda of Sveti Georgi" and the ruins of a 2000 year old Roman road. A lavish casino is housed on the far side along with various government ministries. Suitably imposing but access denied. The wrought iron gates on the cobbled entrances to the courtyard, wall murals seen through the doors and chandeliers observed through windows all display the opulence of this building complex. What a nice place to stay or to work either in the hotel trade or government.
Continuing round to the 'Presidentsvo' I am just in time for the changing of the guard. This high stepping ritual takes place on the hour, every hour. Dressed in 19th century winter uniform, the sentries out in the cold permitted to wear greatcoats, those inside resplendent in red.
Although there are more photographs in the album and more to add as I roamed around the city I will take a break here and continue my story in my next post. I will also place it in the correct place in the timeline then.
Continuing round to the 'Presidentsvo' I am just in time for the changing of the guard. This high stepping ritual takes place on the hour, every hour. Dressed in 19th century winter uniform, the sentries out in the cold permitted to wear greatcoats, those inside resplendent in red.
Comments
Post a Comment