Friday morning dawned, not clear and fine but, as you can see, cold and foggy. My spectacular view across the city to the surrounding mountains was not to be revealed today. Sophia had been shrouded in fog when we arrived yesterday. As we passed the airport on the way into the city my fellow passenger explained to me that the Germans had used the fog as a means of hiding the airfield which they constructed at the time of WWII. It has only been in recent years that one could turn up as a passenger expecting to fly out on Monday morning but not leave until two days later.
I had decided on a full day here in Pernik as I was not sure when the festival would commence. I had also decided that there would be plenty to occupy my time. Breakfast of coffee and a mushroom omelette fortified me for my venture out into the freezing cold. The last few winters in tropical climes has softened me considerably! I must say that the festival organisers have been very thorough in thier preparation. A colour map and schedule in both Bulgarian and English was available from reception. Armed with this I stepped out along the icy path and slid down the steps. Crossing the road to the square I had briefly visited yesterday revealed preparations in full swing as I wandered along the side of the 'Miners Memorial' through the "Craft Alley" and "Survakarsko Selo" (Survakars Village).
Much hustle and bustle as stalls were prepared and aromas abounded as the roasting meats turned on their spits. Note to self, I will return here for lunch. At the end of this area there are more beer and grill stalls opostite the "Cultural Palace". A stage has been set up there for additional performances away from the main square. Indeed there is also another open stage in the park for late night entertainment. For the moment I would wander on to continue exploring the route of the processions and the historic buildings at the top of the avenue.
Walking up the freshly cleared pl. "Krakra Pernishki" "Mechkarnitsa" (workshop masks) made by school children line the route. Strung between the lampposts and trees a colourful and interesting interpretation of the 'mummers' costume masks. There is a page relating to the rules and history of these cardboard masks in the magazine but I could not translate it with any modicum of sense. Suffice it to say that, during the festival, classes take place in the youth centre for those interested. I walked on through a pleasant avenue unfortunately much hidden by snow.
The top of the avenue is dominated by the very communist looking "Mining Directorate" building. A dark stone statue to a coal miner and the orthodox church of "St. Ivan Rilski". The "Municipal Building" rises behind in opposition to the older directorate building. All bear the marks of the communist era when Pernik was a powerhouse of coal mining and engineering. I took in the detail of the statue and of the church and also the huge carved mural on the front of the Municipal building. Nothing is small here in Bulgaria and the east in general. The imposing Mining Directorate did not appear to be open to visitors and I would have the opportunity to visit the church later. For now I wandered up in the direction of the Historical and Mining Museums. Ornate street lamps and old miners houses drew me on before retracing my steps to the gates of the Mining Museum.
I should have read the sign if I had both seen it and been able to understand it. I found out later that tours of the mine took place in groups with a guide. I could have learned so much more but I could not call myself a group in any case. The museum is in the tunnels of what used to be a working coal mine which disappears off into the rock of the mountain side unlike the deep mines of the north east of England. I entered the tunnel not barred by a gate. Spooky, not really the tunnels are reasonably well lit but uneven underfoot. Mining was no easy job wherever it took place.
The first exhibits we arrive at are the narrow gauge rail engine and wagons. Later we would come across horse drawn buckets as this mine first opened in 1891 and produced coal until 1986. As we wander through the tunnels side shafts display varouse aspects of mine working from early until the very mechanised recent past. In some coloured light are used for emphasis so there are idetical photographs in natural light as seen and with flash to reveal more detail.
Bomb shelter and church, the mine fulfilled many roles throughout its working life. From wooden handled tools and barrows through early metal buckets to fully automated tippers and cutters but always the danger lurked. A small cage for a Canary through to methane detectors and complicated mining lamps, junction boxes and switches. A mine is not a friendly place. I looked at cutting equipment which could take your leg off in the blink of an eye. Various types of pit props and emergency braces tell the story of the ever present threat of a cave in. I hope that you will take time to look at the photographs, especially as we have so much in common with these people and the area now left destitute just as the mining areas of the UK. I really enjoyed this visit as it is the first time that I have come up close to much of this equipment. I captioned some of the photos but have left the photos of the name cards as they are in Bulgarian too.
I emerged at the end of the tunnel with a gate which transpired to be near the entrance I had gone down. Fortunately the gate was not locked and I did not have to retrace my steps. A group of people were just entering the main tunnel. If I had had more time I would have tagged on to the end but they would probably have been speaking in Bulgarian in any case. Perhaps another day. Emerging into daylight I paused for a breath of fresh air before exiting in the direction of the Historical Museum.
The museum was free on this particular day if I remember correctly. It is housed in a building of modern construction, light and airy and covers three floors. Extensive information boards in both Bulgarian and English walk the visitor through the history of the area and the influences on Bulgaria itself. Guides are present to assist and explain. The museum has not long been created but is well thought out and developing research and exhibitions all the time. There are many areas surrounding Pernik of great archaeological interest including three forts and the artefacts discovered when constructing the new road.
Going all the way back to 5th century BC there was much military activity and trading in gold, silver, iron ore and timber during the 4th century BC. In 429 BC this area served as the western border of the Thracian Odrysian State. Macedonia and Greece challenge for possession. We will visit the 'Krakra' fort another day. Wandering into a side hall, uniform and weaponry through the ages are displayed from earliest spear heads, through swords and rifles to the machine gun of the First World War. I took some sample photos but you can hop on a 'plane to Sophia and visit yourself.
I had just emerged from this side exhibition and was admiring some of the 'finds' of the area, stone carving, pottery and the like when I heard the sound of bells and drums. The festival was about to start with the 'Survakariada' (Youth masquerade parade). A hasty exit from the museum was required.
I hope that you will take the time to have a look through the photographs in the 'Album 11' page on the main menu or list to the right.
Link to the album
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