Rivers of time...

A long time ago in a land far away (well a new 'Star Wars' film is about to hit the streets), actually I am skipping forward from Plovdiv to events last weekend here in Varna. A trip to the tourist Information office a while ago had established that the number 17 or 2 bus would get me to the other side of the river and the opposite headland. I decided to do a recce as I could not find the correct bus stop around the area of the cathedral. It turned out that I was actually standing on the wrong side of the road. The No.17 which I thought was returning was actually heading out because of the new road system. Find the Tourist Information Office walk on to the end of the street and the stop is just around the corner to the left.  The No.2 stops behind the cathedral somewhere.  Returning is easier they all stop here at this junction in Asparuhov.



The trip is worth it just for the views of the harbour, river and lake from the Asparuhov Bridge, unfortunately I couldn't manage to take any photos from the bus, perhaps another time.  I had actually caught the No.17 from opposite Varna Railway Station and followed the route round to my destination of choice in preparation for another visit tomorrow. It had been my intention to have lunch then explore a little but the cafe was closed for the winter so I walked back towards the town stopping for a coffee and sandwich before wandering back down towards the park, or so I thought. I was walking down ul. "Sveti Sveti Kiril I Metodiy" whereas I had cut through the side streets on the way up.  It all looked very pretty and autumnal, surprisingly similar to the UK.  The unseasonal fine weather is continuing here for the moment, I am assured that it should have been raining by now.

We now get to the 'rivers of time' and my opening sentence as I approached the end of the street. Sting will attest to the ship building taking place at the bottom of his street, to my surprise a similar aspect lay before me which changed the course of the afternoon.  When I was young we had the thriving rivers Tyne and Wear, ship building, cargo, fishing fleets, busy quay sides and mass employment.  Today it has all gone in the annals of time but here before me as I found my way down the rough path to the quay side my past opened up before me.  Here was a wide river alive with activity.


As I explored I could have been fishing with my dad at Eyemouth or cycling to Sunderland with my brother.  Trips to Newcastle were less frequent in those days. At first I wondered if I might be trespassing but I was made welcome by the Bulgarian fishermen as I took my photographs and explored.  Technically the harbour is across the other side behind the Varna Railway Station.  This is, in fact the river Varna which links the lakes to the sea. It so wide that a wide range of moorings are afforded on both banks and the locals also have the ancient right to fish.

As I watched the activities this mighty ship approached from the through the narrow channel denoted by the red and green buoys. Pilots are certainly kept busy here.  I was surprised at the speed at which the ship approached and passed me, small boats continued about their business regardless, just another day on the river.  I could clearly see some of the crew on deck way above me an inspiring sight which again reminded me of what we have lost. It made for an unexpected and memorable first visit to the opposite bank viewed, so often, from the 'Paradise' restaurant.

The only disruption to the routine of those fishing along the quay occurred with the arrival of a local fishing boat and a scattering of men and rods. Fleet of foot the vessel was soon tied up alongside and the fishermen settled back into their respective routines. I do not know the name of the fish caught but one of those fishing displayed his catch for me. About 10 silvery fish approximately eight inches in length or should I say 20 centimetres.  A fresh, tasty dish requiring but a little time and patience.

I departed following the path along the river bank as it leads through Asparuhov Park. There is a sports complex, football and other courts as well as the usual well kept and imaginative children's play area. The sunlight glinting through the greens and browns again reminded me of home.  A boat permanently tethered and, at this moment on dry land, had been a restaurant. Now closed as EC regulations catch up with Bulgaria and the sanitary arrangements have to be improved. Perhaps next season?

I looked back along the river before exploring further towards the headland.  The sun glinted off once distant Maritime and Air Sea Rescue Control building. Newly opened on Varna Day in August 2015. I chatted to an employee enjoying a break in the fresh air. Apparently this had been the occasion of an 'open day' when visitors could look around the centre. Alas, though I was here, I was not aware of this. As always local news does not travel fast.  I moved on.

This unfinished complex can be viewed in the distance on some of the photos I took along the sea front. As in Tenerife the money has run out as the recession hit the pockets of tourists and developers alike.  Bulgaria enjoyed a thriving Russian tourist industry but this has declined with the devaluation of the rouble and the squeeze on their economy. It doesn't seem to have caught on as a family holiday destination from the UK yet though this may change soon. Bulgaria is actively engaged in perusing the English language.

The sun was starting to set behind the trees of Asparuhov Park affording some stunning views of Varna itself but, more impressively the river itself. The street lights on the Asparuhov Bridge twinkled in the gloom whilst the sparks of a welding torch could be seen aboard a ship. As the lights glowed life continued in the twenty-four hours cycle of a busy river.  I hope that you enjoy the photographs in my album 'The Harbour'  or view it as a slideshow.