We go to the street...

I emerged from my building and turned right up the tree lined street I had photographed on my arrival.  Wandering along there was the usual mix of local shops which seem to prevail on every street.  Being the third largest city in the country with a population of some 505,819 persons it could, in fact, be the second largest. The vast majority of the population live in huge concrete apartment blocks largely, I believe, a hangover from the previous regime but more modern architecture is creeping in.  I suppose that this density of population and the absence of hypermarkets sustains the local economy and a good thing to!  I picked this direction as the street leads to the Boulevard "Zsar Osvoboditel" dual carriageway, one of the main arterial roads into the centre. As I reached the top of the street and the road became visible the car density became apparent. No wonder there is a parking problem wherever you go!

View the full Varna photo album here (includes the photos from my first post)

Walking down the carriageway on a not necessarily even footpath I soon conditioned myself to obey the little green man and take extra care crossing unregulated junctions.  Traffic comes from everywhere. One of the problems of feeding a new road structure into old narrow streets so be ware! It was an interesting walk, I could have caught a bus or taxi but where is the fun in that? There are an abundance of small kiosks, some with tables and chairs, supplying drinks and snacks which is just as well as the average temperature is around 28-32 degrees C (82-86 F). Interspersed amongst the newly constructed shop fronts quaint little cabins still exist selling all sorts of products from clothes to melons. A shot of the filling station gives an idea of the cost of living, at the moment 1 lev is worth about 35p.

I saw the first entrance to the huge 'Primorski Park' at the junction with Boulevard "Knyaz Boris I". This park is 2.9 km (1.8 miles) from that point to its end; bounded on one side by the boulevard and the other the beach. I am heading to the centre so will explore the park another day. Carrying on down the street I discover that there is an entrance further down the road where a narrower stretch of park runs towards the centre. Having reached this point I decided to bravely cross the road and partake of lunch in an open air café I could see from the corner.  What a delightful place it is.  A cold beer, green salad starter and, in deference to my sister in South Africa, chicken livers with mushrooms and onions followed by a large coffee; the espresso type thick, black and lots of sugar (if you want it) all for the princely sum of 12.50 Lava (about £4.50). After lunch I had a look around the immediate vicinity before emerging further along Boulevard "Primorski.

Crossing the road I discovered some relics representing various types of construction of what must have been quite luxurious dwellings as they all face onto the park. Now mostly derelict I pondered what had happened to the families who once lived there. It was suggested to me that the 'oligarchs' make it difficult to live there so that, eventually new hotels or shopping malls can be built. Whatever the truth of the matter I hope that Varna manages to retain some of its heritage and does not become another 'Costa del Sol'.

Walking along; the road disappears into an underpass which allows the park and promenade to the beach to join seamlessly with the pedestrianised centre of the city.  A quick look around the entrance showed another of the examples of the culture in the annual photographic exhibition. A very evocative display from Argentinian photographer on his visit to Patagonia.  My friend Jose-Lois from Tenerife would be a worthy exhibitor here,  I will take you down to the beach and follow the coastline on another occasion.  A signpost points out some of the attractions both current and historical available to visitors in the area.




Note the Russian built "Hotel Odessa", some believe that Varna was the original city of Odessa. I ambled up the Boulevard "Slivnitsa", stopping for a cool lemonade as it was extremely hot and I had walked some 3km by this point.  Chatting to the waitress I have obtained the name of her village in the mountains which will provide a destination to aim for in the future. She has lived in Varna for three years owing to the poor employment prospects across the country, no change there then! Capturing the program of this years music festival I walked on up the boulevard noting the same architectural changes which have taken place in the UK, modern designer shops on the ground floor of once majestic buildings now rotting away above eye level. Reaching the top of the boulevard what do I find but MacDonalds, oh yes and that Google street maps car again. Perhaps I'll appear on a street in Varna one day.

I followed the Boulevard "Knyaz Boris I", from dual carriageway to single road to pedestrian walkway, no wonder you need your wits about you when driving or crossing the road.  Passing churches and designer shops I was making for the Opera House where I purchased a ticket for 'Carmen', 20 Leva.  I also bumped into the Coke girls and saw a massive fountain under construction in front of the Law Courts. Interesting to see the complicated latticework of pipes and lights. I hope to see this finished and working before I leave.

A coffee opposite the Cathedral, which is a visit in itself, before heading back along Boulevard "8-mi Primorski Polk" past the statue of Ivan II, Tsar Kaloyanthe, Greek (or Roman) slayer,  Emperor of 2nd Bulgaria Empire.  The circuit was completed by heading up the Boulevard "Slivnitsa", now a dual carriageway again, stopping to observe the workings of a trolley bus as it negotiated the complicated junctions before turning back into Neofit Rilski Street, approaching my apartment from the opposite direction. I recon I covered some 5-6 km on this jaunt. Hope you enjoy the trip too.  Lots more to explore too!

View the full Varna photo album here (includes the photos from my first post)