My second day in Veliko Tarnovo should have started with breakfast however I did not realise that the bar/restaurant kitchen did not open util 11:00 hours so be warned, accept the hotel's offer of a free breakfast. The fine buildings across the road housing the Museums of the Bulgarian Revival and the Prison now beckoned as they had been closed the previous day (Monday). This was proving very popular on a bright June day as were most of the attractions in the area. It would seem that end of term in this town, and possibly country, involves lots of school trips to see history and art first hand and I must say that all of the children were very enthusiastic. Perhaps that was freedom from the classroom rather than freedom from oppression?
Before entering the building I had a wander around the grounds where a statue of Kolyo Ficheto (architect, builder and sculptor) resides. This grand building, both inside and out, was commissioned by the Ottoman Turk administration as a 'Town Hall', i.e. judicial, administrative building with a prison to the rear. As Tarnovo was capital of the 2nd Bulgarian Empire, Ficheto had other ideas and he built on a grand scale hoping that, eventually, this building would be the palace of a future King of Bulgaria.
Completed in 1872 it was only some 7 years later when his dream of revolution came true and in 1879 the Constituent Assembly held its sittings and appointed a new King of Bulgaria. As I mentioned in my visit to Sofia the capital was soon to move there. I am told by Rouman that the thinking of the time that Bulgaria would incorporate Macedonia once again which would place Sofia in the centre of the country. This did not come to fruition and left Sofia vulnerable when the Serbs later invaded.
On entering I paid my 4 or was it 5 Leva and, in halting English, it was explained that 'Parliament' was on the 1st floor, 'Revolution and Culture' on the ground and 'Coin collection' in the basement. I will let you into a secret, there is no coin collection, it is a magnificent collection of 'Icons'. I had seen a poster for a 'Exhibition of Coins' in the Tourist Information Office which I blame for my confusion. Before wandering off anywhere take a moment to examine the magnificent wooden staircase and the panelling in the hall. The craftsmanship and textures are superb. I climbed the stairs to start at the top and work down. How amazed I was when I reached the first floor and entered the main hall.
The National Assembly sat here, members of the Orthodox church, military, revolutionaries and thinkers are displayed. It contains original documents, photographs and artefacts relating to the creation of the State. The fortunate construction of the building as a palace lent gravitas to the occasion, the wooden ceiling, the pillars and the ornate windows all contribute. Whilst not all exhibits are captioned in English, the imagination is captured by the innovative and stimulating layout. As a diversion two of the ante-rooms contain a unique collection of cameras, some well known in the west others famous names in the east, an education in itself. I did not capture everything in the building but tried to give a flavour of the adventure within the building.
Descending the stairs I entered the exhibitions on the ground floor devoted to the struggle. One mans' rebel is another mans freedom fighter. This is very evident both from the composition of the struggle and the exhibits in the Prison Museum too. Various exhibits bear the name "Haiduk" in the description. "Haiduk" means outlaws, brigands, highway men or freedom-fighters. A lot of the bands who united with the Russian and other soldiers were composed of intellectuals, teachers, religious figures and others who had been outlawed by the Ottoman Empire.
On this floor ante-rooms contain exhibits on early education and the role of such people as 'Father Matey' a wandering scholar. The printing press figures too. At the time of the revolution many Bulgarians lived in isolated villages. The majority could not read or write. Wandering scholars were instrumental in starting education and spreading the word of revolution amongst these native Bulgarians. The Bulgarian Orthodox Church was also breaking away from both Ottoman and Greek control around this time. When there are enough sparks, flames will ignite.
Descending to the basement I examined the structure, in common with most buildings large or small, the foundations and lower walls are brick or stone. I wandered around a superb collection of Icons, freezes and other religious artefacts. But I could not find the coin collection? The light dawned eventually and did not diminish the collection I was observing. Again I have only taken a sample. Go see for yourself. There are surprises too...
.... I was not expecting this guy! Halls also contain aspects of the crafts, culture and life of Tarnovo. I never cease to be surprised at these exhibits. Bulgaria and its regions, its history and development throw up a diversity of exhibits be they physical or photograph. It is never boring and, indeed I have come across some unusual things once again. Ever seen a water mill with four wheels? Whoever owned this building and worked the mill must have has quite a headache keeping this going.
A visit to this museum must include a visit to the prison behind. The Ottoman Turks imprisoned and tortured mainly political prisoners who were involved in the struggle for an independent state no more so than in Tarnovo. Prisoners were held on two floors below ground level right through until 1954. It also has two memorials to those who were imprisoned or died there during the struggle.
I have not dwelt on individual histories or great detail of the struggle, there is plenty of information on the internet and in books. I hope that throughout my travels I give a flavour of the country, its history and culture. I also hope that you enjoy the photo album.
View my "Re-birth of a Nation" photo album
(I have adopted a new approach with captions on the photographs so if anyone wants an unblemished copy an email request through my profile should do it. Good idea or not let me know.)
.... I was not expecting this guy! Halls also contain aspects of the crafts, culture and life of Tarnovo. I never cease to be surprised at these exhibits. Bulgaria and its regions, its history and development throw up a diversity of exhibits be they physical or photograph. It is never boring and, indeed I have come across some unusual things once again. Ever seen a water mill with four wheels? Whoever owned this building and worked the mill must have has quite a headache keeping this going.
A visit to this museum must include a visit to the prison behind. The Ottoman Turks imprisoned and tortured mainly political prisoners who were involved in the struggle for an independent state no more so than in Tarnovo. Prisoners were held on two floors below ground level right through until 1954. It also has two memorials to those who were imprisoned or died there during the struggle.
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