"ad Astra", an alternate point of view

It was a couple of lines on the local tourist map which resulted in a change of pace this morning visiting a place not found in most guidebooks.  Having arrived by train I had not idea where Plovdiv airport was in relation to the guest house. The very supportive staff here 'phoned a taxi company to find out how much the trip would cost. 12.50 Leva - to expensive? Not to me, a foreigner.  Shortly after a taxi arrived and we set off out of town. A 20 minute journey if memory serves and we pulled up in a rather desolate car park. Some desolate barrack buildings and a couple if men in service uniform, it all looked a bit bleak and I wondered if I had made a mistake. Too late, the taxi had departed having agreed to return in three hours. Even after I was directed down a road to my left it only compounded my sense of doom as I approached the gates with no one in sight.

I walked through the open gate, spotting a 'gate guard' to my left.  My first close encounter with the 'enemy' but still no sign of a collection.  I had arrived at the 'Plovdiv Aviation Museum' located on the opposite side of the main runway to the 'Terminal' buildings. I would think that this was once a military establishment sharing a runway as so often occurs in Europe.  But still no sign of life. Was three hours too long?  I examined the MiG before walking following the road around the corner.

My spirits lifted as I observed the next static exhibit indicating that I was in the right place and there was, in fact, a museum. Not knowing what to expect I examined both of these aircraft quite closely before moving on.  I should point out that, when I referred to the enemy, I am taking about WWII and the cold war which followed.  The collection covers many of the aircraft we faced when I was a young man.  Bulgaria is now a fellow member of the NATO and the EU.

I walked on, rounding the corner of the hangar and found the museum proper.  A young lady approached me across the tarmac and, very casually, sold me an entrance ticket (5 Leva).  There are organised tours with a guide (20 Leva) during the summer months if you are that way inclined.  I marvelled as the exhibition was revealed before me. Some 70 aircraft dating from 1940(ish) through to 1990(ish) pleasantly arranged on grass or brick plinths.  Each has a detailed information board in both Bulgarian and English.  There is also a smaller plaque detailing how the exhibit arrived at the museum which I also found of interest.

I found the exhibits fascinating and have taken front back and side shots in most cases.  Occasionally a detail drew my attention, well frequently actually!  My father was a rear gunner in the RAF in a similar position to this at first.  I was also struck by the similarity of some models to our own, co-operation with Russia during the later years of WWII or industrial espionage who knows.  Perhaps there are, like the auto mobile only so many ways you can build a fighter.

Weaponry is also displayed and it makes you stop and think.  When working amongst the stuff it tends to fade into the background in the hustle and bustle of the day. Observing them in the cold light of day and from the point of view of the opposition it makes one think.  They also had their own heroes just like us.  As I write this, late as usual, Remembrance Day is approaching. I shall spare a thought for these servicemen too.  We are all innocents and despots when the world is thrown into turmoil.

It is not all doom and gloom as the photographs show.  I have commented each one and, hopefully they tell the tale.  There is a mix of military and some civilian, light aircraft to supersonic, bi-plane to helicopters. It highlights the wide variety of tasks performed by the Bulgarian Air Force over the years and the rise and collapse of the soviet block as supply of operational types changed.  If you get the chance well worth the visit.  Of course, where there are aircraft there are ground crew.

The museum exhibits a collection of airfield support vehicles. From generators to radar, many similarities to western air forces but also interesting changes in practices or emphasis dependant on priority or differences in technology available at the time.  These exhibits would be driving around the country roads of Bulgaria if the locals had the same taste for re-enactment which we do at country fairs the length and breadth of England.

I did wonder whether passengers were shocked as they viewed the airport on approach.  Two exhibits one pointing down the runway and the other up in the direction of the terminal buildings took my eye. It was an experience to be able to get up close to these installations!  I took a photograph through the perimeter fence of those buildings across the runway. Beyond is a 'graveyard'. I wondered if the shells would eventually be restored and exhibited or, was this their final resting place?  Time and, no doubt, money will tell.

There is also an indoor exhibition hall full of interesting memorabilia.  Entering, one is confronted by the space age.  A recovery capsule, space suits and the like.  Bulgaria has a close affinity with Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. I wear a replica of the military watch he took with him.  Just at the Royal Air Force originated from the Army and early uniform and equipment reflects that, so too the history of the Bulgarian Air Force changes.  Early flight and other achievements are also reflected here.  An excellent end to my visit. Coincidentally it took me the three hours to wander around. Should you require refreshment, there are vending machines for drinks and chocolate bars but no cafe.

For those who enjoy a good war film, lately reflected in Afghanistan get up close and personal with this - the 'in'famous 'Hind' helicopter.   In the mean time I hope you enjoy wandering around the Plovdiv Aviation Museum with me...
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