One Man in Bulgaria

Emerging from the museum the crowds have gathered. Parents help their children into their costumes, fathers carry the heavy masks for their sons but all around the tension builds as the various youth groups line up and wait their turn to parade down the avenue to the central stage where the judges wait. Groups have arrived from towns and villages around Pernik and from afar to attend this prestigious event. Costumes and dances reflect the local traditions of these villages but all follow the themes of the mummers traditions. From Morris dancing in England to the mountains of Switzerland these pagan traditions win through to the modern age. The battle for survival during the long dark winter months and the hope for new life in Spring are reflected in the dances, the offering of bread, the hobby horse, the bear and the devil.

Ever since I arrived here the locals have told go by bus it is faster and better. Well here we are at Varna bus station boarding the 10:00 bus to Sofia.  You may recall that my guide at the Sofia Ethnological Museum mentioned a festival which took place in her village.  On returning to Varna I did some research on the internet to establish dates and places.  Most villages have celebrations around 12th night or the 14th, Michaelmas. Mumers dressed in various costumes continue the traditions established in pagan times. Amongst many listed I discovered the festival at Pernik so off we go.  I am told that it is a six hour journey.