One Man in Bulgaria

09:30 hours on Friday morning. As I entered my taxi snowflakes gently fell, my first of the winter. Haw frost or snow it was difficult to tell as the taxi sped towards Sofia railway station but the city had taken on a magical property. I thought to myself that it was a shame that I was leaving it was not to last.  Arriving at the station in plenty of time for my 10:30 departure to Varna, time enough to take some photographs and have breakfast. The Christmas tree in the foyer a touch of colour in this colossal construction.

Day three (Thursday 17th December) dawned cold and clear. I started my day with coffee and sandwich at the cafe next to the National Theatre. Again no access and no sign of a production I could attend.  I continued up the side of the theatre then up ul. "Georgie Benkovski" to arrive opposite the Russian Church of  'St. Nicholas the Miracle Worker' which I had passed on my way back on Monday. The photograph shows the proximity to other destinations on my walking tour. This ornate building was modelled on 16th century Muscovite churches as it was consecrated in 1914 to serve the Russian community. I have said golden domes, but that is just part of the treasures contained in this building. Alas photography is not allowed but the frescos taken from 17th century paintings covering every inch of the walls must be seen. There is also a crypt containing the grave of Archbishop Serafim who gave solace to the Russian exiles from the Bolshevik Revolution.

Wednesday morning dawned crisp and clear. After a coffee and 'danish' in my room I ventured down to reception and requested a taxi to my chosen destination for the day. Once again chosen for me as the Museum of Military History is only open on a Wednesday and Sunday.  It is accessible by public transport but I didn't know where it was as it has relocated recently to large new premises in the grounds of the Military Academy. Walking in through the main gate on ul. "Cherkovna" I was confronted with an array of military hardware laid out before a large single story building.

The President safely guarded I moved off to the other end of the block. Looking down the street there was the 'Sveta Nedelya' church at the end not so far away.  Where next, attracted by a shop window I turned to follow ul. "Saborna" in the opposite direction. Bulgaria has certainly adopted the 'Christmas spirit' since independence. The 'Bank of Bulgaria' on my left afforded a look at some of the typical architecture surviving in this historic centre. I have discovered that 'Sofia' means 'Wisdom' hence the statue.

My last post from Sofia left me tucked up in bed. Tuesday morning (15th Dec.) dawned not so bright and not so early.  A look out of my window confirmed that bul. "Todor Alexandrov" would lead me to Sofia city centre. According to Google the outside temperature was about 6°C and it would be about a 20 minute walk. Just enough to work up an appetite for brunch in town.  I paused at the bridge over the river to see the water and look back at the hotel before proceeding on my journey. There is ample public transport for the faint hearted, a metro station next to the hotel as well as buses and taxis. A tram service also criss-crosses the city though not past this particular hotel.

It is 07:25 hrs as my train pulls out of Varna station.  The carriage is more typical of ours in the UK this time, a single row of seats, aisle and two seats together. More spacious than ours with arm rests and plenty of storage space, though I have never travelled 1st class in the UK. This time we are heading west almost across the length of Bulgaria to the capital Sofia. At first the scenery looks similar to my previous journeys but changes as we split from the route south and head along the line of the Central Bulgarian Mountain Range.

Winter approaches, the nights are drawing in. Although it is bright during the day the temperature drops sharply around 4 pm as the sun goes down, I now have my padded winter coat, my fur hat ant my thermal gloves.  All set to wander down to the square to see the lights switched on on the Christmas tree.  The lack of leaves reveals more monuments relating to Varna's past but more of this another day. Arriving in ploshtad "Nezavismost" (where the big fountain is located) I wondered if I had missed a 'Christmas market'.

Out of the mists of time came forth volunteers from Bulgaria, Serbia and Turkey. They formed their encampment on the sports field in Asparhov Park and at 15:30 on Saturday 14th November battle commenced.  In fact the actual battle took place on the 10th of November 1444, the re-enactment takes place on the nearest Saturday every year.  The site of actual battle was on the plain, now the home of the Park-museum "VLADISLAV VARNENCHIK" ,   to the west of Varna about 7 km from the harbour.  It would appear that a defensive strategy on the part of the crusaders whilst Christian reinforcements arrived by sea would probably have changed the course of history.

The old Submarine HQ Leaving the river behind darkness descended as I walked back to the bus stop in Asparuhov.  I had observed a No.88 bus arriving as I was exploring and intended to catch this home as I knew that it went past the bottom of my street. Turns out it goes as far as the airport.  In fact a No.2 arrived so I hopped on that to see where it would drop me.  Over the bridge and back into central Varna the run terminates outside the Tourist Information Office.  Quite handy but looking around it started me off on another project I have had in the back of my mind.  I  had kept putting this off as I cannot find a camera stand.

A long time ago in a land far away (well a new 'Star Wars' film is about to hit the streets), actually I am skipping forward from Plovdiv to events last weekend here in Varna. A trip to the tourist Information office a while ago had established that the number 17 or 2 bus would get me to the other side of the river and the opposite headland. I decided to do a recce as I could not find the correct bus stop around the area of the cathedral. It turned out that I was actually standing on the wrong side of the road. The No.17 which I thought was returning was actually heading out because of the new road system. Find the Tourist Information Office walk on to the end of the street and the stop is just around the corner to the left.  The No.2 stops behind the cathedral somewhere.  Returning is easier they all stop here at this junction in Asparuhov.

It was on my last night in Plovdiv I discovered that, here in Bulgaria, you cannot book a taxi in advance. Don't worry, reception will get you a taxi in the morning. My train was due to depart at 07:24, I hoped that this was the case.  This album consists of some 160 photographs taken from the train on my return journey aboard the 8631 Plovdiv to Varna express so I obviously made it.  I didn't take any photos at the station as I was too busy trying to grab a hot drink and cheese pastry to take with me. Not enough hands!

It was a couple of lines on the local tourist map which resulted in a change of pace this morning visiting a place not found in most guidebooks.  Having arrived by train I had not idea where Plovdiv airport was in relation to the guest house. The very supportive staff here 'phoned a taxi company to find out how much the trip would cost. 12.50 Leva - to expensive? Not to me, a foreigner.  Shortly after a taxi arrived and we set off out of town. A 20 minute journey if memory serves and we pulled up in a rather desolate car park. Some desolate barrack buildings and a couple if men in service uniform, it all looked a bit bleak and I wondered if I had made a mistake. Too late, the taxi had departed having agreed to return in three hours. Even after I was directed down a road to my left it only compounded my sense of doom as I approached the gates with no one in sight.

Day two of Plovdiv in October started with a taxi ride down to the post office.  My guide book says ' a whole day can be spent in Plovdiv, they are having a laugh! Perusing the detailed map of the area supplied by the guest house made me realise that I was not going to be able to see it all no matter which area I concentrated on. Having purchased some picture postcards the day before I decided to start my day at the at the Main Post Office and work backwards. I had seen the building in the distance from the Roman Theatre the previous evening and was under the impression it was further away than it actually was hence the taxi. I was dropped off more or less where the photo was taken and, as you can see, already stumbled on the ruins of the ancient city.

After a continental breakfast I emerged from the guest house for my first view of Plovdiv. The booking had mentioned that it was situated in the heart of the old town and this was certainly true,  'ul. Saborna' runs from top to bottom. Cobbled streets and historic buildings surrounded me.  I had decided to walk up to the top of the hill and start my tour from there.  Passing several notable buildings including the 'Icon Museum' I proceeded slowly up the hill. Be warned the old town is not an easy place to get around if you are not nimble on your feet. A few yards and I was at the junction of several 'roads', the tourist information office across from me. At this time of the morning it was relatively quiet and I proceeded on up the hill passing more beautiful buildings as the road became narrower, eventually little more than a lane.

I had spent the previous days researching bus and train journeys between Varna and Plovdiv, ultimately deciding upon a rail ticket mainly because it happened to be raining and I could do this on the BDZ website. It was to cost 37.20 Lev or £14.47 return. My train was due to depart at 16:00 hours as this is currently the only one which can be booked on-line however it has the advantage of being a direct route. A local internet cafe printed off two copies of the ticket. I have always done this as a precaution in case I loose one. On the appointed day I caught the Number 20 bus from the top of the street which dropped me opposite the station.  Conveniently I could grab something to eat at a cafe there as no refreshments are available on the trains.

Earlier in my stay here in Varna I attended an Opera/Ballet at the open air theatre in the park.  A production of the ballet 'Giselle' performed by the Russian Ballet gave me a chance to see inside the 'Opera House' as it is referred to by the locals or the 'Drama Theatre' as it is shown on the map.  We have walked past this building on a previous tour of the town centre but it takes on an aura as night falls and the lights come on. The whole area has been improved and pedestrianised, the new fountain has been completed and makes the area even more attractive. It is very affordable to attend theatres and other productions here a ticket in a prime position is only 20 Levi (£7.50). We join the gentle throng at the steps of the building....

Sometime friend, sometime foe and sometime neither the Bulgarian navy, has under different guises sailed from and defended the harbour in Varna both as a strategic and commercial port.  Hopping off the No. 20 bus, not in front of the museum but next to the roundabout on ul. "Devnya".  The railway station is just ahead of us on the left but I want to venture a short way up ul. "Preslav" just off the roundabout.  The home of the Bulgaria Navy is situated here in its magnificent dome topped Headquarters here. It now flies the flags of Bulgaria, the EU and NATO so we now are friends. A while ago during the "Cold War" we were foes, during the World Wars both and occasionally neutral. That is why I am so surprised when people are shocked that nations spy on each other "friend or foe" and have done since time immemorial. It is now interesting to see from the other sides perspective.

I set off today with my camera with the intention of visiting a particular museum located in the grounds of the 'Sea Park' as I have discovered that the park is commonly called. I thought that I would catch the Number 82 down into the town as it ran down to the railway station and, if I got off at the top of the hill I could make my way to the park by a shorter route.  I find that the advantage of travelling by bus allows the discovery of fascinating things along the way such as this take on the 'concrete jungle' located as it is on the corner of a street in an area composed of high rise concrete apartment blocks along side modern shops and apartments too.

During the last week of May 2012 I was wandering around "Parque Garcia Sanabria" in Santa Cruz, Tenerife when I discovered the week long book fair held there.  Here I am three years later discovering a week long book fair taking place in the pedestrian area of the Bul. Slivnista.  It seemed very appropriate as the news had been filled with the announcement that Finland, or was it Sweden?, was to give up the teaching of writing in schools and, at the same time, the smart phone was overtaking all other devices both as a means of communication and of entertainment.  Despite using my 'Kindle' as a matter of convenience I still love the look, feel and experience of the printed word.

If you are following this blog you may recall that, in my second post, I stopped for lunch in Primorski Park and later purchased a ticket for "Carmen Dance" at the Opera House. Fortunately I showed a friend  the ticket and is was explained to me that, during the summer, performances take place in the open air theatre as it is too hot to hold them indoors.  The open air theatre is situated just behind the plaza which I had not realised at the time. I walked down from my apartment, which I ultimately regretted as it was so hot, entering the park at the gate on the junction with Bul. Knyaz Boris I and strolled down to the plaza. Dinner down on the sea front where it was explained to me that these few days are the hottest in the Bulgarian calendar. Extreme heat now, very cold winter is the local saying. I shall, no doubt, find out if this is true.  The park itself looks very pretty at this time of day too, but the gates to the theatre were open the audience was massing so

Times if not destinations Out and about last week I bought some postcards but couldn't figure out where to buy stamps. Enquires revealed that there is a post office behind McDonald's in the pedestrianised area and a main office somewhere behind the cathedral, identifiable by yellow flags. This seems to be the common postal colour across Europe unlike British red. As it is about time that I tried out the bus service I decided to head up the leafy end of my street to catch a bus into town on Bul. "Tsar Osvoboditel", driving on the right means that I do not have to cross the main road.  I could identify the bus numbers and times but not the destinations but I knew that they must end up in the centre somewhere. Because of this and subsequent failed attempts to find timetables I have decided to create a page on the blog dedicated to the bus routes in Varna.  Whilst sitting waiting for the next bus I noticed that the traffic lights count down to their change just as t

I emerged from my building and turned right up the tree lined street I had photographed on my arrival.  Wandering along there was the usual mix of local shops which seem to prevail on every street.  Being the third largest city in the country with a population of some 505,819 persons it could, in fact, be the second largest. The vast majority of the population live in huge concrete apartment blocks largely, I believe, a hangover from the previous regime but more modern architecture is creeping in.  I suppose that this density of population and the absence of hypermarkets sustains the local economy and a good thing to!  I picked this direction as the street leads to the Boulevard "Zsar Osvoboditel" dual carriageway, one of the main arterial roads into the centre. As I reached the top of the street and the road became visible the car density became apparent. No wonder there is a parking problem wherever you go! View the full Varna photo album here  (includes the photos from m

A chance remark whilst talking to my brother during a couple of months R&R in the UK after my trip to South Africa and here I am -  taking up residence in Varna, Bulgaria, right next to the Black Sea.  Following my usual path I shall be exploring the country by bus and train trying to bring a flavour of this, probably, most easterly member of the EU. Why here, why not?  Bulgaria offers a fascinating history bordered by Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Serbia and Romania it has been part of empires from the Roman to Ottoman to Communist alongside a rich folklore and varied countryside. You may or may not know that they use the crylic alphabet here which will add to the sense of adventure - lol as they say in the tweets.