Wednesday morning dawned crisp and clear. After a coffee and 'danish' in my room I ventured down to reception and requested a taxi to my chosen destination for the day. Once again chosen for me as the Museum of Military History is only open on a Wednesday and Sunday. It is accessible by public transport but I didn't know where it was as it has relocated recently to large new premises in the grounds of the Military Academy. Walking in through the main gate on ul. "Cherkovna" I was confronted with an array of military hardware laid out before a large single story building.
Many of the plots were under reconstruction as I wandered around. Where possible I have photographed the information plaque alongside the exhibit but many are not yet located or identified. I am sure that, by the summer, this work will be completed resulting a very interesting display. The tanks and guns are accompanied by the trucks and other miscellanea of an army on the move. There are also a few aircraft and naval guns on display but, having visited the museums in Varna and Plovdiv I concentrated on the army. Tanks, field and anti-aircraft guns, pontoons and amphibian vehicles enough to please anyone interested in military history. As the temperature was little above zero I retreated indoors.
The single story building turned out to be the entrance foyer, 'canteen' and offices. Purchasing my tickets I discovered that there is a 'national' ticket. The museums in Varna and Plovdiv are, in fact part of this National Military Museum. There is one more for me to visit after this to complete the collection. I was informed that the new museum is a four storey building housing collections of army weaponry, uniform, awards and historical documents. Along with the external exhibits a 5 km walk lies ahead. As you can see the décor in the canteen displays many historical photographs of the Bulgarian army and other key events in the creation of a nation.
I emerged from the building to view a second external display area displaying cannon balls to the ultimate deterrent. Those growing up during the cold war or aficionados of certain action movies will be familiar with the image of the ballistic missile launched from the frozen wastes or forest somewhere across the border which was the 'Iron Curtain'. Here they were, up close and personal. A sight which still freezes the heart. I have not added many comments to the photographs, most speak for themselves. Time to enter the main exhibition hall, I had come to see the uniforms of the permanent exhibition.
On entering I was diverted by a temporary exhibition. Walls displaying photo montages, maps and documents. film stock played on monitors, audio in the form of bulletins and propaganda music and exhibition cases of memorabilia all displayed with vast texts albeit in Bulgarian but understandable never the less as war is universal. This recently completed exhibition housed in one whole wing depicts the involvement of Bulgaria from the run up to the aftermath of the Second World War. Starting off as an ally of Germany as they thought that disputed territory would be returned to them then an ally when joining with Russia in the push west. Sofia suffered from extensive German bombing in the latter years of the war and, once again, the fate of the Jewish community. The exhibition ends in the trials at Nuremberg. I talked to the Director of the Museum who explained how they had put together the exhibition which is planned run for six months and is hoping to produce and English language pamphlet to explain the exhibits. Photography is not allowed in this exhibition.
The other halls of the museum run in chronological order from the first to fourth floors telling the story of the Bulgarian army from the year 681 to the present day. For personal reasons I skipped to the fourth floor as I would not have time to view the whole collection. I particular wanted to see the more recent uniforms and equipment of the new Bulgarian army formed after the liberation from Ottoman rule in 1878 as seen at the 'Presidencia'. Once again I will have to find an opportunity to view the rest of this huge collection.
The first hall I entered contained a huge array of modern weaponry from sabres to self propelled rockets, I even picked up a catalogue displaying the wares on sale currently from the Bulgarian armaments company. It does not matter how many museums and collections one views there is always something new to find. The collections of pistols from the Colt of the American west to the Luger of the German army but especially the presentation pistols given to dignitaries highlight the difference in attitude to hand guns around the world to that of the U.K. The displays resting on gun boxes leant to the starkness of the architecture of this very modern building.
I wandered on, a guide following me to answer any questions I may have, to the hall containing the uniforms I sought. From everyday working dress to ceremonial, winter and summer uniform and the accompanying regalia from caps to epaulettes and a huge oil painting depicting the regiments reviewed by Tzar Boris III (zoom in to see the detail in this painting) give plenty to focus on. The uniforms are displayed in date order as they changed finishing with the combat gear worn today. The gold epaulettes must have cost a pretty penny!
An unexpected bonus in the other wing were two halls of 'Honours and awards', something which I have not seen before other than worn in paintings and photographs. Not only 'Knighthoods' but civilian orders and medals of merit are featured here alongside those awarded by countries from around the world. I found this very interesting as I will never see most of these again and some had the documentation relating to the circumstances of the award too. Again I have only taken a sample, get on a 'plane and visit.
Having run out of time and energy I departed the building and had a coffee in the 'canteen' before departing for the city centre in a taxi ordered for me by reception. They are always willing to do this here in Bulgaria. Now very cold outside and darkness falling I decided to have another look at the 'weihnachtsmarkt' before returning to the hotel. Children singing on the stage, a nativity story I believe followed by a puppet show presented by two very animated young ladies, a mulled wine as I watched. Purfect!
P.S. the fourth museum of the 'set' happens to be be here in Varna and is already on my list for the spring, watch this space as they say!
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