Ever since I arrived here the locals have told go by bus it is faster and better. Well here we are at Varna bus station boarding the 10:00 bus to Sofia. You may recall that my guide at the Sofia Ethnological Museum mentioned a festival which took place in her village. On returning to Varna I did some research on the internet to establish dates and places. Most villages have celebrations around 12th night or the 14th, Michaelmas. Mumers dressed in various costumes continue the traditions established in pagan times. Amongst many listed I discovered the festival at Pernik so off we go. I am told that it is a six hour journey.
I am an in an isle seat so not opportunity to take photographs, besides due to the snow the windows are too dirty. Leaving Varna's almost cleared streets we enter a winter landscape, snow covered fields stretch into the distance giving a 'monochrome' journey across the landscape until we reached Sofia. A 20 minute refreshment break at 12:30, a Russian or German war movie with Bulgarian sub-titles, no sound, on the LCD screens then at about 15:15 we pulled into a very new bus station. I recognised the sculpture in front of the railway station across the car park. My challenge now was to find a local bus to Pernik. At first I thought that I was at the wrong desk but then worked out that I had to cross the car park to the 'local' bus station. I found the company running a service to Pernik, purchased my 3 Leva ticket and straight onto the bus about to depart. A frigid industrial landscape emerged as I approached the city. Derelict factories outnumber the smoking chimneys of the survivors. Huge pipes follow the straight road into the city, Rectangular arches at regular intervals bore no relation to access roads or gates, was this construction to maintain the pressure of the contents, what was the contents of these huge double pipes. I was to find out later when I visited the fort.
I should have alighted at a stop near the hotel, I was watching my journey on Google maps, however my case was in the hold so I waited until we arrived at the bus station. Snow, ice and steps. A dual carriageway has been driven through the city, linked by a long pedestrian underpass the adjacent railway tracks then station are on the other side. Taxis ply their trade from there and I could not manage the steep ice covered steps with my case. I opted to clime the few steps out of the bus station to the road. After trying to flag down two passing taxis without success I crossed the road to a local bar. Offering my mobile; I asked if proprietor could possible phone for a taxi for me. Of course and she even used her own phone. The least I could do was by a drink whilst I waited. On arrival she helped me with my case and I was soon checking in at my hotel. About £100 for 5 nights for my spacious, non-smoking single room.
Hotel Struma is very clean with friendly, helpful staff. It has a dining room, a coffee lounge and a cafe/bar. Wifi is available but only in reception. Why mention non-smoking? After a while I wondered if the rooms had originality been for smokers as there was a hint of something in the air. Along with the pipes the cause became obvious when I visited the fort. I looked out of my window to discover that I was at the heart of the action. This would be a tremendous advantage as the festival progressed. Incidentally the large white square in the photograph is the 'ice rink' unfortunately covered in snow.
I muffled up as the outside temperature was below zero by that time before exiting the hotel for a look around and supper. It was very treacherous underfoot/ Some areas had been cleared but ice had formed where melting had occurred during the day so I limited my exploration to the immediate area of the square where, it transpired, the main action of the festival would take place. Not knowing the format beforehand I was really lucky with my choice of hotel which turned out to be named after the river flowing through the city.
The stage awaits judges and performers, the course of the fast flowing frigid river Struma flows underneath visible on either side. My fingers were very cold by now and I could not see much evidence of activity so I decided to retreat to the hotel dining room. Fortified with traditional salad followed by a very tasty fillet of pork with mushroom sauce, potatoes and crisp fresh vegetables with a glass of red wine I spent the rest of the evening in the hotel lounge.
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| The river at night |
When I told folk that I was going to Pernik they seemed less than impressed. It is not regarded as a tourist destination by the locals having expanded in the communist era as a coal mining and related industrial centre now fallen on hard times. Where have I heard this before? Born and bred in the North East of England I felt something in common with the place and would have visited in any case. "The fort is only a ruin, there are better ones to visit". Perhaps there are but the fort first constructed by the Thracian civilisation long before Rome became a power in the land has its own appeal. The mining museum, the city itself and the festival too all bring another aspect of Bulgaria to life. Tomorrow (Friday 29th January) is the first day of the festival, will there be much activity or is this to be a day of arrivals and an opening address? We will see. I haven't created a link to the album as there are only a few photos relating to hotel room and this evening's walk. They will be included in tomorrow's album.
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