I left the bar/restaurant on the corner and headed off up ul. "Ivan Vazov" this being the road I had travelled down in the Taxi from the city to the hotel. I still could not work out which bend of the river I was on. It was now very hot and humid and uphill! I passed some souvenier shops then came to the fork in the road where ul. "Nikola Pikolo" and my path become ul "Stefan Stambolov" and it was still uphill. Nothing for it ask a local. The con-census was, "It's down there" pointing back in the direction I had come. Not having a camel or water I darted into a shop for a bottle, I was going to need it especially when I saw those steps. Veliko Tarnovo is definitely not for the faint-hearted. I reminded me of Durham City from whence I came. This fact was to be brought home to me later for another reason.
Reaching the fork with the bar I decided to plod along the main street as this was new territory. Just past the bar I observed a parking area with a fine example of an Orthodox church. This turned out to be the "Nativity of St Mary" Cathedral. Now I have also seen it called "Cathedral of the Birth of the Theotokos" when researching a statue on the internet but more references, including the map I later purchased refer to it by the former name so I am sticking with that. I wandered across to take a look and was so pleased that I did. I didn't actually enter the building at the time meaning to return later however the view from the cathedral plaza was breathtaking and I began to realise what a gem this place is. Come and have a look.
I had been told that the many and varied houses clung to the cliff face overhanging the river and this is perfectly true. I was reminded again of Tenerife and some of the houses there, though these did not originate as caves. The views were spectacular especially as there wasn't a cloud in the sky. Talking to a local archaeologist later in the day he remarked that Tarnovo reminded him of Durham City where he had studied.
The river loops through gorges eroded into the rock over thousands of years so building takes place on the three hills which make up the city and, similar to Durham, make it a very defensive site. There are, in fact, three defensive sites Tsarevets, Trapezitsa and Svet Gora making up the city of Tarnovo. Veliko was added to the name officially in 1966. Artisans built their houses along the river under the defensive walls of the fortresses. Although much is made of the fact that Tsaravets was the capital city of the Second Bulgarian Empire the area has been populated since the 3rd millennium B.C. Excavations are being carried out on Trapezitsa hill where remains from that era have been discovered. The foundations of another fortified area are being uncovered and, ultimately, may rival Tsaravets where it is known that Thracian tribes lived during the bronze and iron ages. The whole area is steeped in history.
I had intended to visit the ruins of a Roman city about 20k to the north about a third of which has been excavated however this was not to be. My friend Roumen, the archaeologist worked on the site and we will return in September. I mention this because it fills in the gaps. Civilisation has continued uninterrupted for so long. Looking to my right from the cathedral plaza I had my first view of the fortress city of Tsarevets. I shall expand on this later.
In the mean time I continued down the hill to discover that the Tourist Information office was not there. The information centre here related to the fortress city, however I could get a bus to the Municipal building in the 'modern' city centre. Locals on the bus were very helpful when I was heard trying to explain where I wanted to get off. Contrary to my belief that all fares are the same in all cities this was only 70 stotinki (0.70 Lev). Looking back along the main street down which I had travelled in the taxi then come up on the bus I began to realise that the city is not actually that big thought there is a lot crammed into it.
I asked inside an official looking building and a very helpful man sitting behind a computer rose and took me to the door so that he could point out a tall building across the way. Aim for that and the Tourist Information Office is next door. I crossed the street at the lights and found myself looking at the "Maika Monument". Time out for a closer look. The monument, with a perpetual flame in it's centre and surmounted by victorious "Mother Bulgaria" commemorates those who gave their lives in the battle for Bulgarian independence against the Ottoman Empire. Why the roses? June is harvest time for one of Bulgaria's main exports - rose oil. Harvested in these regions of the country.
After walking around the monument keeping the tall building in site I descended another flight of steps (I have quite a collection of photographs of steps), walked past the Military Club and there, ahead, was the Tourist Information Office. It transpired that the Intercity Bus Station was just a street behind. Small world indeed. I wanted to enquire about how to get to the Roman site and the only way is by taxi unless you have your own transport. All was not lost however.
Asking if there was anything special on during my stay I discovered that I could purchase a ticket (20-25 Leva) for the "Royal City of Tarnovo SOUND and LIGHT". The guide books all state that this takes place on Public Holidays. What they mean is that it is free on Public Holidays when, frequently, there are fireworks too. It was there that I was to meet Roumen for the first time. Needs must he runs the show. Lazer, lights, music and bells, a spectacular show portraying the history of the fortress city.
View my "Tourist Information Trail" photo album here (I have adopted a new approach with captions on the photographs so if anyone wants an unblemished copy an email request through my profile should do it. Good idea or not let me know.)
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