After a continental breakfast I emerged from the guest house for my first view of Plovdiv. The booking had mentioned that it was situated in the heart of the old town and this was certainly true, 'ul. Saborna' runs from top to bottom. Cobbled streets and historic buildings surrounded me. I had decided to walk up to the top of the hill and start my tour from there. Passing several notable buildings including the 'Icon Museum' I proceeded slowly up the hill. Be warned the old town is not an easy place to get around if you are not nimble on your feet. A few yards and I was at the junction of several 'roads', the tourist information office across from me. At this time of the morning it was relatively quiet and I proceeded on up the hill passing more beautiful buildings as the road became narrower, eventually little more than a lane.
Nebet Tepe (Rahat Tepe) means Sentry or Lookout hill which affords a panoramic view of Plovdiv, the 3 hills and the Rhodope mountains to the south. It is the remains of the earliest settlement dating back to the Bronze age, through the Thracians (remember Spartacus), bearing the name of Evmolpiya, one of the first urban settlements in South-eastern Europe. Then early Romans when it was known as Philippopolis and on to the 13th-14th c. Second Bulgarian State.
The walls eventually expanded out to encompass the highest parts of the three hills but this was the citadel, the highest point of all. Of course water is essential to survival and there was a secret exit and steps down to the Maritsa River. But the site contained water reservoirs such as this one added in medieval times. Holding some 3000 litres they could withstand a lengthy siege. It has also been established that the site contained an impressive tower too. If I was more agile I could have taken some more dramatic photos of the ruins!
After a good look around the site and the magnificent views I took some time to ponder the defensive position as I looked over the huge blocks which made up the walls, taking in the clock tower and the monument to the unknown soldier surmounting two of the hills. Modern Plovdiv also stretches out before you on the other side of the river in contrast to the myriad churches and historical buildings to the foreground, not necessarily in the Old Town but in the area below as commerce and prosperity grew.
I retreated back down the cobbled lane as I sought out my next destination along 'ul. Saborna'. The Regional Ethnographic Museum housed in one of the finest houses in Plovdiv. Constructed by the Master Builder Haji Georgi Hajiiski in 1847 for a rich trader, Argir Kuyumjioghlu. Plosdiv created very rich merchants from its strategic position between east and west, north and south. The house itself as well as the collection portray this wealth and also the crafts, clothing, music and farming.
This contrasts the lifestyle of the wealthy and the lowly peasant. The significance of the craftsman and the guilds in the politics of the region. The diverseness of the farming from tobacco to rice, honey to rose oil, wine to wool. Through the front door one enters this magnificent drawing room, rich wooden floors and a ceiling with ornately carved ceiling rose. A grand piano at the far end is dwarfed by the size of the room. I paid my 5 Lev entrance fee and began to explore.
Doors and cornices intricately constructed lead through to what would have been the other living and working rooms of the house. These now contain the exhibitions as well as contemporary displays but I wonder how many people fail to marvel at the construction and decoration of the house itself. Each room takes on a theme. Information is displayed on boards of photographs and text unfortunately copyright National Geographic. I had paid an extra 5 Lev to take photos but I am not sure what this covers so, sadly, I have left out close-ups of the information boards.
I was amazed and, again, reminded of my exploration of Tenerife when I discovered the diversity of the agriculture. The implements used in the collection and distilling of rose oil are displayed alongside the implements used for the planting and harvesting of rice which lead on to animal farming. There are displays of cottage industry wool spinning, copper and goldsmith's tools and ware alongside the sort after ceramics of the age. The gold and, in some cases, jewel encrusted belt buckles worn by the Ruptsi women contrast with the copper trays and ornate ceramic jugs.
Backtracking up the hill, just below the fort, the 'Paxat Tene' restaurant serves and excellent array of food and drinks in the open air whilst the weather holds. I strongly recommend the Bulgarian goulash. It takes 25 minutes to prepare but is worth the wait arriving sizzling in an iron pot it is a huge meal of pork, mushrooms, cucumber, onion, and other vegetables. I recommend the yoghurt salad as a starter otherwise you will not be able to finish the dish. You could always share of course.
I returned to the museum, up the grand staircase to the 'grand hayet', the focal room of the house. This floor has a large collection of traditional dress and costume alongside other displays of clothing and trinkets of the well to do of Plovdiv society through the 19th and early 20th centuries. The affluence and sophistication is amazing in contrast to the room displaying a typical peasants hut. Another room contains a selection of musical instruments including bagpipes very similar to the Northumbrian pipes of my youth.
The rooms containing the displays were also functional rooms in the time of the owner. They are all luxuriously appointed and some are devoted to the actual contents of the house at that time. The dining room not only shows the furniture but also the ornamental and religious tastes and beliefs of the time. There is a lot to see here and this is just one of the many houses containing museums in the old town not to mention the rest of Plovdiv. After a good look around I retreated through the beautiful gardens to the street.
I took some photographs of buildings which caught my eye as I progressed to my next destination at the bottom of the hill. When I say bottom the site is still a vantage point to look over old Plovdiv as opposed to the old town and beyond to the Rhodope mountains. The Romans new their stuff when it comes to the dramatic as this is where they constructed the theatre. Between 5-7000 spectators watched the dramas and other productions of 2nd century Philippopolis or Trimontium as Plovdiv was respectively known.
Two semi-circles constructed of marble seats, each tier containing 14 rows viewed a two story 'skene'. Ornate carvings and statues abound and this is reputed to be the best preserved theatre in the world. An imposing paved entrance under an imposing arch admitted the spectators to the theatron. The 'skene' very visible and imposing as the crowds waited to be admitted. A fire or an earthquake at the end of the 4th century caused irreparable damage, just 20 of the 28 rows of the theatron survive. The two story 'skene' with its imposing pillars and statues would have made an imposing backdrop to the stage whist the Roman city, more of that later, and mountains behind would have been a spectacular sight from the higher rows of the amphitheatre. Entrance is 5 lev but the steps down are steep and uneven so care is needed.
There is a cafe bar adjacent to the site with tables and chairs at the top of the amphitheatre which affords a comfortable place to sit and relax whilst enjoying the view just as the Romans would have done. Fittingly the Academy of Music, Dance and the Visual Arts building is adjacent to the site. I partook of a drink and a bite to eat as I took in the site, imagining the crowds and the atmosphere of the time. Productions are still performed here during the summer months to an audience of some 5000 spectators. A must see I think!
In the distance one can see the oldest hotel in Plovdiv alongside the cultural centre and the Post office building in front. These landmarks will have significance later on. As I site enjoying this tranquil moment the sun began to sink and the lights came on in the theatre. An evocative sight.
I hope that you will enjoy the photos and comments in this album...
Plovdiv in October -the Old Town
Nebet Tepe (Rahat Tepe) means Sentry or Lookout hill which affords a panoramic view of Plovdiv, the 3 hills and the Rhodope mountains to the south. It is the remains of the earliest settlement dating back to the Bronze age, through the Thracians (remember Spartacus), bearing the name of Evmolpiya, one of the first urban settlements in South-eastern Europe. Then early Romans when it was known as Philippopolis and on to the 13th-14th c. Second Bulgarian State.
Doors and cornices intricately constructed lead through to what would have been the other living and working rooms of the house. These now contain the exhibitions as well as contemporary displays but I wonder how many people fail to marvel at the construction and decoration of the house itself. Each room takes on a theme. Information is displayed on boards of photographs and text unfortunately copyright National Geographic. I had paid an extra 5 Lev to take photos but I am not sure what this covers so, sadly, I have left out close-ups of the information boards.
I was amazed and, again, reminded of my exploration of Tenerife when I discovered the diversity of the agriculture. The implements used in the collection and distilling of rose oil are displayed alongside the implements used for the planting and harvesting of rice which lead on to animal farming. There are displays of cottage industry wool spinning, copper and goldsmith's tools and ware alongside the sort after ceramics of the age. The gold and, in some cases, jewel encrusted belt buckles worn by the Ruptsi women contrast with the copper trays and ornate ceramic jugs.
I returned to the museum, up the grand staircase to the 'grand hayet', the focal room of the house. This floor has a large collection of traditional dress and costume alongside other displays of clothing and trinkets of the well to do of Plovdiv society through the 19th and early 20th centuries. The affluence and sophistication is amazing in contrast to the room displaying a typical peasants hut. Another room contains a selection of musical instruments including bagpipes very similar to the Northumbrian pipes of my youth.
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