One Man in Bulgaria

09:30 hours on Friday morning. As I entered my taxi snowflakes gently fell, my first of the winter. Haw frost or snow it was difficult to tell as the taxi sped towards Sofia railway station but the city had taken on a magical property. I thought to myself that it was a shame that I was leaving it was not to last.  Arriving at the station in plenty of time for my 10:30 departure to Varna, time enough to take some photographs and have breakfast. The Christmas tree in the foyer a touch of colour in this colossal construction.

Day three (Thursday 17th December) dawned cold and clear. I started my day with coffee and sandwich at the cafe next to the National Theatre. Again no access and no sign of a production I could attend.  I continued up the side of the theatre then up ul. "Georgie Benkovski" to arrive opposite the Russian Church of  'St. Nicholas the Miracle Worker' which I had passed on my way back on Monday. The photograph shows the proximity to other destinations on my walking tour. This ornate building was modelled on 16th century Muscovite churches as it was consecrated in 1914 to serve the Russian community. I have said golden domes, but that is just part of the treasures contained in this building. Alas photography is not allowed but the frescos taken from 17th century paintings covering every inch of the walls must be seen. There is also a crypt containing the grave of Archbishop Serafim who gave solace to the Russian exiles from the Bolshevik Revolution.

Wednesday morning dawned crisp and clear. After a coffee and 'danish' in my room I ventured down to reception and requested a taxi to my chosen destination for the day. Once again chosen for me as the Museum of Military History is only open on a Wednesday and Sunday.  It is accessible by public transport but I didn't know where it was as it has relocated recently to large new premises in the grounds of the Military Academy. Walking in through the main gate on ul. "Cherkovna" I was confronted with an array of military hardware laid out before a large single story building.

The President safely guarded I moved off to the other end of the block. Looking down the street there was the 'Sveta Nedelya' church at the end not so far away.  Where next, attracted by a shop window I turned to follow ul. "Saborna" in the opposite direction. Bulgaria has certainly adopted the 'Christmas spirit' since independence. The 'Bank of Bulgaria' on my left afforded a look at some of the typical architecture surviving in this historic centre. I have discovered that 'Sofia' means 'Wisdom' hence the statue.

My last post from Sofia left me tucked up in bed. Tuesday morning (15th Dec.) dawned not so bright and not so early.  A look out of my window confirmed that bul. "Todor Alexandrov" would lead me to Sofia city centre. According to Google the outside temperature was about 6°C and it would be about a 20 minute walk. Just enough to work up an appetite for brunch in town.  I paused at the bridge over the river to see the water and look back at the hotel before proceeding on my journey. There is ample public transport for the faint hearted, a metro station next to the hotel as well as buses and taxis. A tram service also criss-crosses the city though not past this particular hotel.

It is 07:25 hrs as my train pulls out of Varna station.  The carriage is more typical of ours in the UK this time, a single row of seats, aisle and two seats together. More spacious than ours with arm rests and plenty of storage space, though I have never travelled 1st class in the UK. This time we are heading west almost across the length of Bulgaria to the capital Sofia. At first the scenery looks similar to my previous journeys but changes as we split from the route south and head along the line of the Central Bulgarian Mountain Range.

Winter approaches, the nights are drawing in. Although it is bright during the day the temperature drops sharply around 4 pm as the sun goes down, I now have my padded winter coat, my fur hat ant my thermal gloves.  All set to wander down to the square to see the lights switched on on the Christmas tree.  The lack of leaves reveals more monuments relating to Varna's past but more of this another day. Arriving in ploshtad "Nezavismost" (where the big fountain is located) I wondered if I had missed a 'Christmas market'.